 New Roof
Upper Marlboro, Maryland: This home was ready
for a new roof; and since the existing roof
shingles were very flat (as opposed to
curling), one of the options available was a
roof over. Only about 10% of the roofs
that I inspect actually qualify for a "roof
over". |
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Shingle Rake
Edges: When doing a
"roof over" we always cut back the existing
shingles so that only the newly applied
shingles can be seen from the
ground.
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Cutting the third Course of
Shingles: This is a "super secret" technique
that I use to flatten out the first couple of
new courses of shingles when installing a
re-roof. Well, maybe it's not such a
secret anymore; but that's
OK. |
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Chalk
lines: I always use
chalk lines to keep the new shingles in perfect
alignment. Also notice that the joints
are "staggered" to keep the new roof really
flat.
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One
of the cool things about this method is that I
can chalk a line for the rake edge and cut the
shingles perfectly straight. It looks
great! |
Cutting the Rake Edges with a
Hook Blade: After the edge has been chalked to
overhang about one inch, we cut along the
line, using it as a guide. Now that's a
really straight edge! |
Too much Tar and
Goop!
Notice all that tar
that some other roofer used to prevent
leaks? Here's the correct formula: More
tar smeared around = More
Leaks!
I see this major roofing
mistake made all the time, and I am amazed at
the lack of knowledge of my
predecessors! |
Big Roof Leak: This tiny little
crack was responsible for the drywall damage
in the upstairs bedroom -- it's what happens
when an inexperienced "roofer" smears roofing
tar all over a plastic or rubber pipe
collar. The petroleum distillates in the
tar cause the plastic to distort; and, well
you can see what happened. |
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Geocel Tripolymer
Sealant: If it weren't
for wind driven rain this sealant would not be
necessary; but in this area, it's a MUST.
By the way, Geocel Tripolymer is the best
sealant on the market -- it's compatible with
rubber and asphalt, and pretty much seals for a
lifetime . . . it's the only sealer we
use.
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Sealing Down the Metal Ridge
Vent is a step almost all roofers just
skip. It's necessary, but I'd say that
99% of the old vents I remove have no
sealant! No, actually I think it's
99.9%! The sealant helps preserve the
underlayment and adds to the efficiency of the
ridge vent system. |
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Satellite Dishes mounted on the
Roof can be kind of tricky, but we actually
remove each let of the tripod -- one-at-a-time
-- so that we can relocate the unit properly,
in the same holes under the new roofing.
Then we seal the bolts with Geocel for a
perfectly waterproof system. |
Geocel Sealant again; this time
for covering the screw heads on the satellite
tripod. |
Roof
Jacks are a good way to keep us on the roof
without damaging the new shingles; they fasten
under the new shingle tabs so the screws /
nails don't penetrate the surface . . . |
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Rust Inhibiting Paint on the
Roof Pipes: On this project in Upper
Marlboro, Maryland, we painted the pipes with
Rustoleum Brand Paint -- it's a great
preservative and lasts forever. Notice
that the rubber boots weren't painted -- for
the same reason you don't put tar on rubber
and plastic. |
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The new Certainteed Horizon
Roofing Shingles carry a manufacturer's
warranty of 30 years, and Home
Restorations warrants the labor against leaks
for ten (10) full
years. |
